Princess Cut Diamond Buying Guide: Everything You Need to Know

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Introduction

When it comes to choosing the perfect diamond for an engagement ring, anniversary gift, or investment piece, the cut is one of the most important aspects to consider. Among the various diamond cuts available today, the Princess Cut stands out as a modern classic — combining brilliance, sharp angles, and an elegant square shape that appeals to both contemporary and traditional styles.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know before buying a princess cut diamond — from its origin and characteristics to the 4Cs, ideal settings, pricing, and expert buying tips. Whether you’re shopping online or in-store, this knowledge will help you make a confident, informed purchase.

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

The Princess Cut is a square or rectangular-shaped diamond with pointed corners and a brilliant faceting style. It’s often referred to as the “square modified brilliant” because it combines the elegant geometry of the square with the brilliance of a round cut.

History and Origin

  • The princess cut was first developed in the 1960s but gained mainstream popularity in the 1980s and 1990s.

  • Originally known as the profile cut, it was refined into the modern princess cut by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz.

  • It is now one of the most popular diamond cuts, second only to the round brilliant.

Key Features

  • Shape: Square or slightly rectangular

  • Facets: Usually 57 or 76 facets

  • Cut Style: Brilliant-style facets for maximum sparkle

  • Corner Style: Sharp, unrounded points (require protection via prongs)

  • Appearance: Fire and brilliance rivaling round diamonds, with a modern geometric edge

The Pros and Cons of Princess Cut Diamonds

Pros

Excellent Sparkle
Thanks to its brilliant-cut facets, the princess cut delivers outstanding fire and brilliance.

Modern Aesthetic
Its clean lines and sharp angles offer a bold, stylish look.

Cost-Efficient
Princess cuts often cost less per carat than round cuts due to higher yield from the rough diamond.

Versatile for Settings
Works well in solitaire, halo, three-stone, and vintage-style settings.

Hides Inclusions Well
Brilliant faceting helps mask internal flaws better than step cuts like emerald or asscher.

Cons

Fragile Corners
The sharp corners can chip if not properly protected by prongs.

Shows Color More
Color tends to show more at the corners, so consider choosing a higher color grade if you want a colorless look.

More Depth
Princess cut diamonds often carry more weight in the depth of the stone, making them appear smaller than round diamonds of the same carat weight.

Understanding the 4Cs for Princess Cut Diamonds

The 4Cs — Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight — are essential to evaluate when purchasing any diamond.

Cut (Most Important)

Unlike round diamonds, the cut grade for princess diamonds is not officially standardized by GIA. However, you can assess cut quality by checking the following:

  • Length to Width Ratio:

    • Ideal: 1.00 to 1.05 for a square look

    • 1.06–1.10 appears slightly rectangular

  • Depth %: Aim for 65%–75%

  • Table %: Aim for 60%–73%

  • Symmetry and Polish: Very Good to Excellent

Avoid princess diamonds that are too deep or too shallow, as these compromise sparkle and face-up size.

Color

The princess cut shows color more than rounds, especially in the corners. Recommendations:

  • D–F (Colorless): Best for platinum or white gold settings

  • G–H (Near Colorless): Great value; still looks white in most settings

  • I–J: May show a slight yellow tint, especially in white metal settings

For yellow or rose gold, you can go lower in color as the metal camouflages the tint.

Clarity

Princess cuts mask inclusions well, but corner inclusions are risky due to chipping potential.

  • Recommended: VS2 or higher for eye-clean appearance

  • SI1 or SI2: Budget-friendly but must inspect carefully

  • Avoid: Inclusions near the corners or edges

Carat Weight

Due to deeper cuts, princess diamonds may appear slightly smaller than round diamonds of the same carat weight.

For example, a 1.0 carat princess may look closer in size to a 0.90 carat round.

If visual size is a priority, consider a halo setting or slightly lower clarity/color to go bigger in carat.

Best Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds

Choosing the right setting enhances both the diamond’s beauty and durability.

Solitaire Setting

  • Emphasizes the shape and sparkle of the diamond

  • Use V-prongs or bezel to protect corners

Halo Setting

  • A ring of smaller diamonds surrounds the princess cut

  • Adds size, sparkle, and vintage flair

Three-Stone Setting

  • Pairs a center princess cut with side stones (often trillions or baguettes)

  • Symbolizes past, present, and future

Channel Setting

  • Perfect for eternity bands or wedding bands

  • Holds multiple princess cuts side-by-side with a sleek, seamless look


Princess Cut vs. Other Diamond Shapes

Shape Sparkle Face-Up Size Price Fragility
Princess High Medium $$ High (corners)
Round Very High Medium $$$ Low
Cushion Medium-High Slightly smaller $$ Medium
Asscher Low Small $$$ Medium
Radiant High Larger $$ Medium

Princess cut diamonds offer an excellent balance of brilliance, modern appeal, and affordability.

How Much Does a Princess Cut Diamond Cost?

Pricing depends on the 4Cs and certification. Approximate ranges in 2025 (GIA-certified):

  • 0.50 carat, G color, VS2 clarity: $1,000 – $1,500

  • 1.00 carat, G color, VS2 clarity: $3,000 – $4,500

  • 1.50 carat, H color, SI1 clarity: $5,500 – $7,500

  • 2.00 carat, F color, VS1 clarity: $10,000 – $14,000

Lab-grown princess cut diamonds cost 30% to 60% less, depending on quality.


Where to Buy Princess Cut Diamonds

Online Retailers

  • James Allen: Offers 360° videos, customization, and real-time support

  • Blue Nile: Large selection and easy browsing

  • Brilliant Earth: Ethical sourcing and lab-grown options

  • Whiteflash: High-performance princess cuts with light performance data

In-Store Retailers

  • Jared, Kay, and Zales offer princess cut diamonds but often at higher prices

  • Independent jewelers may allow for better negotiation and personalization

Expert Buying Tips

  • Always choose certified diamonds (GIA or AGS preferred).

  • Look for V-prongs to protect sharp corners.

  • Opt for Very Good or Excellent symmetry and polish.

  • Avoid stones with inclusions at corners (risk of chipping).

  • Compare diamonds using high-res imagery or 360° videos.

  • Prioritize cut and sparkle over carat weight.

  • Use filters and comparison tools when shopping online.

Princess Cut for Engagement Rings

Princess cut engagement rings symbolize bold love, clarity, and modern elegance. Ideal for:

  • Trend-forward couples

  • Those who prefer geometric lines

  • Shoppers looking for brilliance at a great value

Pairing a princess cut with a sleek band or a custom setting can make the ring truly one of a kind.

Final Thoughts

The princess cut diamond offers a stunning combination of brilliance, value, and contemporary style. Whether you’re choosing a center stone for an engagement ring or investing in a pair of diamond studs, the princess cut delivers exceptional sparkle and strong visual impact.

Armed with the knowledge from this guide — from understanding the 4Cs and selecting the right setting to choosing trusted retailers — you can now shop with clarity and confidence. Remember, a diamond is more than just a piece of jewelry; it’s a symbol of love, strength, and lasting beauty.

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